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In General 

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Tavala calda -  (hot table). A unique style of dining typical of Milan that is the Italian equivalent of a cafeteria (a quick-service eatery serving pre-made, hot, traditional Italian meals). Fresh hot and cold dishes are displayed through a large glass and metal counter where you can choose from a wide variety of  traditional Italian comfort food that feels like your Nonna cooked it just for you.  Courses and side dishes are available and you can select what you like. Look for these cafeterias throughout the city for authentic, inexpensive home-style cooking.  You can find them all over Milan. You only need to walk a few blocks into the neighborhoods off the main piazze and tourist sites to spot these local  eateries.  You can find tavala calda in other areas of Italy as well. 

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One of our favorites is Bistrot Milan Duomo. Located inside Il Mercato del Duomo building, you enter the ground floor and head upstairs to a multi-level marketplace with self-service pasta stations, hot dishes, and sandwiches overlooking the cathedral. Another is Garbagnati in addition to their hot lunch and dinner dishes, they also operate as a bakery.  About 2.5 miles north of the Duomo. 

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Rosticceria:  Another local dining spot. These shops traditionally specialize in roasted meats like whole spit-roasted chickens, Tuscan arista pork loin or porchetta, skewers of mixed meats, baked pastas, roasted potatoes and vegetables. 

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Pizza al taglio ("pizza by the cut").  Pizza baked in large, rectangular pans that are displayed on long glass bakery counters where you can choose the a cut slice and weight. Designed to be quick, convenient, and eaten on the go. While it was born in Rome, pizza al taglio has become a staple of daily life all over Italy.

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Italian Fast Food - Italians are not a Fast Food Nation. Even Italian restaurants that promote so called “fast food” are still making traditional Italian slow food – just a little faster. So yes, there is the Italian version of American Fast Food but not at all like what we have here. The food is of a much higher quality with great attention to freshness and regional ingredients. Food served is often equal to or better than what you would find in white table restaurants in the States. Here are a few we seem to frequent.

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• The Autogrill – a cafeteria style restaurant and caffe’, located every 30-50km off the Autostrada, is the Italian equivalent of our fast food but the quality and assortment is far from any fast food restaurant in the US.  The restaurants at the Autogrill serve fresh pasta, grilled meats, fresh salads and chef inspired desserts.  Italians are very particular about their food no matter where it is being served.

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• Bauli Grills – similar to Autogrills and also have great pizza by the slice and cafeteria style food service as well.

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• Spizzico –  a self-service fast food pizza chain owned by Autogrill that not only serves 13 different types of pizza but fresh fruit and pastries. The Spizzico I usually find myself at is the Spizzico in Milano by the Duomo and the Galleria on my way to and from shopping!

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• Porchetta Food Trucks – roasted pork panini, succulently seasoned with salt, pepper, rosemary, garlic and wild fennel, cooked on a stainless steel pole in an oven until the skin is crispy and the meat is silky and tender.

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Lombardia

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Ristorante Mella  (Ittiturismo Mella) - Bellagio, LOM. Eating at a restaurant on Lago di Como (Lake Como) may seem like a euro busting dining experience but Ristorante Bar "Mella" is an unpretentious gastronomic delight that is within anyone's budget. Every time my Milanese cousins travel to Bellagio we make it a point to eat at Ristorante Bar "Mella". The restaurant operates as an ittiturismo (fisherman's cooperative), meaning the owner catches the lake fish served each day.

 

From the time you enter the restaurant you can see there is a special connection between the lake and the restaurant. The owner is a professional fisherman and is trying to keep the regional lake fishing tradition alive. There is a beautiful view of the lake from the dining room. The staff is most hospitable and will be happy to explain the variety of dishes served. I spent a memorable afternoon, with my cousins, eating through most of the menu and drinking spumante. Then I walked down to the lake to see the fishing boats and was introduced to an Italian Spinone! The location is rustic and relaxed with beautiful views of Lake Como away from the crowds of central Bellagio.

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Solo Pizzeria Gino Sorbello - Milan , LOM. World-famous Neapolitan master pizzaiolo with several highly acclaimed pizzerias in Milan.

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Obica (Obika’) Duomo -  Milan, LOM. Mozzarella Bar on the 7th floor of La Rinascente Duomo with an icredible outdoor rooftop terrace with spectacular views of the Duomo spires so close you think you could touch them. Trendy, and tourist-friendly with a tasting platter centered around the freshest Mozzarella di Bufala Campana DOP paired with prosciuttos and pestos. If you like Mozzarella this is an obligatory spot to stop while visiting Piazza Duomo and shopping at the legendary La Rinascente. 

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Panzerotti Luini - Milan, LOM.  A must when in Milan for the ultimate Italian  street food experience. Down a side street , a short 1-2 blocks from the Duomo, the Luini historic bakery has been serving panzerotti since 1949. I like the classic stuffed version, a hand-held pastry pocket of fried dough filled with melted mozzarella and tomato sauce. There are other savory versions and a sweet version filled with hazelnut/chocolate, fruit or sweet ricotta. There is no indoor seating and always a line but the line moves fast. So be prepared to place your order and do as the locals do. Patiently wait then grab your warm Luini paper bag of panzerotti, find a nearby set of steps on the square for a local bite of a Milanese food legend.

 

IL Boschetto  - Sesto San Giovanni, Milan, LOM.  If you are staying in a local suburb of Milan,  which I always do,  IL Boschetto is a well-known, family-friendly garden restaurant and pizzeria located in Sesto San Giovanni directly connected to the Tube, Milan's underground transit network. It is easy and fast to reach, about  6 miles north of central Milan (Piazza del Duomo) at the Sesto Rondò station. If we are staying in Sesto we eat at least once at IL Boschetto.  The menu includes pizza and pasta and grilled meats as well as classic Italian coastal dishes like Sautè di Cozze e Vongole and grilled octopus which we enjoyed.

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Caffe degli artisti - Sesto San Giovanni, Milan, LOM. This caffe was recommended by our cousin Lidia who like in Sesto. Located in the middle of a beautiful public park, set inside the historic 19th-century Villa Zorn. Inside the villa there is a restaurant. There is also an outdoor kiosk and bar area that is open in the evenings from Tuesday to Sunday,  for a local Italian aperitivo or after-dinner drinks. They do serve Cotoletta alla Milanese: A massive, crispy, bone-in veal cutlet served topped with fresh arugula and cherry tomatoes.

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​Trattoria Bernabo - Bergamo, LOM.  Located in Città Alta (Bergamo's historic upper town), located off the main Piazza Vecchia on Piazza Mascheron, slightly off the tourist flow.  Serving polenta and other Lombardian including a local crescent-shaped pasta typical of Bergamo.

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Il Kiosko - Navigli in Milan, LOM. Our Milanese cousin told us we MUST stop here when visiting in Milan for a "live like a local" experience to taste some delicious street seafood. The selection and presentation are amazing. Prepared on the spot. Quick service, simply served at street side tables. Aragosta, calamari, cozze, gamberi, polo, vongola and more - all fresh and vibrant. A perfect stop for a bite when walking along the canals in Navigli. Slightly off the tourist flow but so worth it.

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The Meatball Family - CityLife Shopping District. Milan, LOM. I want to be part of this family! Their original meatballs with red sauce reminded me of our Nonna's and would be worth a trip alone but it doesn't stop there. Variations like the Nirvana (veggie balls made with an eggplant mousse served with a yogurt lime sauce) and the Doctor Goa (chicken meatballs with a light curry sauce) take you way beyond your grandmother's meatballs. Grounded in tradition, with culinary crosscurrents that bring an Italian favorite to another level. Be sure to try the truffle cheese sauce. Great with the meatballs but save some for a side cone of well prepared frittes. Great selection of beers. We recommend the Leffe Radieuse. Located  in the food court of City Life Shopping center under the famous "Tre Torri" (Three Towers) skyscrapers.

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Emilia Romagna 

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​Trattoria Nuova Marasca - Mantova, MN, in one of the most beautiful squares of the old town, just behind the monumental cathedral of S. Andrea.

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Ristorante Montevenere - Monzuno BO, traditional Tagliatelle alla Bolognese and other  Apennine specialties.

 

La Ca’ Bianca Ristorante Pizzeria - Castelvetro in Modena, MO, family-friendly, rustic, convivial, traditional Emilian restaurant. Also serve skewered Spiedone di Carne (skewered meat) with roasted potatoes. 

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Trattoria di Noemi - Ferrara, ER, located in the historic center of Ferrara, traditional Ferrara dishes including Cappellacci di zucca al burro e salvia. Michelin Recognition for its dedication to Renaissance-era and Este family traditions in a historic palace dating to the 15th century with a rustic romantic atmosphere. Expect a higher price range. 

 

Antica Corona -Loiana, BO. A cozy, historic pizzeria and osteria located in Loiano where you can get authentic, handmade Neapolitan-style pizza alongside classic Bolognese dishes. Moderately priced. 22 miles south of Bologna. 

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Toscana

 

Ristorante Mugolone -Siena.  Fine dining in the heart of Siena. Located on an ancient pilgrim route connecting Piazza del Campo to the Duomo that leads you down narrow, winding cobblestone streets with an ambiance and atmosphere of another time and place. It is dinner time and streets are lit by iron lanterns, casting a soft, warm glow that leads you to Mugolone for the ancient flavors of Siena. Handmade pici pasta, fresh pappardelle with wild boar ragout, and classic Florentine T-bone bistecca sold by weight.

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Da Roberto - San Giovanni d”Asso, SI. Countryside trattoria located a few miles from the main village of San Giovanni d'Asso in the medieval hamlet of Montisi. Famous Cinta Senesi pork dishes. Part of Slow Food Cooks’ Alliance. 

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La Locando del Castello Ristorante - San Giovanni d’Asso, SI.  Near Siena. Next to a charming inn and the Museo di Tartufo  (Truffle Museum).  Known for the ancient flavors of Tuscany and delicious local specialties made with the legendary tartufo bianco, Italian white truffle. I had them over braised pigeon on my last trip while sitting on a private veranda that overlooks the landscape of the town and valley below. When ordering, I would willingly take the advice of the chef.  I ate a delicious pici pasta with cacio e pepe (cheese and pepper) one night and another night wild boar ragu’ that was both delicate and bold. The assorted salumi included Lardo di  Colonnata, a protected Tuscan delicacy that is particular to the region. 

 

A wonderful meal in a little village off the tourist flow for most travelers but so worth it. An undiscovered Tuscan secret.

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Ristorante Badia a’ Coltibuono - Gaiole, Chianti , SI -  Abbey of the Good Harvest. A famous stop in Chianti. Ancient abbey now winery, restaurant and wine resort with exceptional accommodations.  Wine tours available and there is a tasting menu with 4 wines and alla carte items. Well-known for the Lorenza de’ Medici Cooking School, one of the first cooking schools in Tuscany. 

 

La Verbena -  Siena. Located just outside the historic walls of Siena. Simple but incredible, authentic Tuscan meals. Good for those on road trips into Siena.  

 

Antica Macelleria Cecchini -Panzano, FI. A Tuscan macelleria (butcher shop) where the owner is as comfortable quoting a triplet from Dante’s inferno as seasoning and grilling a bistecca alla Fiorentina. On Sunday from 9:00 -2:00 pm you can walk into the famous macelleria and enjoy a complimentary, sampling of antipasti with bread and Chianti butter (similar to lardo colonnata), finocchiona (fennel salami), and house Chianti wine or you can schedule a communal meal at the adjacent restaurant for an amazing experience that defines the food, wine  and conviviality of Tuscany.  20 miles south of Florence. 

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Veneto​

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Osteria da Ugo - Verona, VR.  Hidden on a quiet side street , a 2 minute walk from Juliet’s House. Veronese regional dishes like Venetian-style liver and onions with polenta and bigoli; thick, long strands of pasta typical of the Veneto region of Italy.  Regional wine including  favorites like Valpolicella and premium Amarone served by the glass.

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Ristorante Lepre ( La Lepre) - Valeggio sul Mincio, VR.  An exceptional family-run restaurant located in the historic center of Valeggio sul Mincio 6 - 7 miles south of the southern shore of Lake Garda. The restaurant is known for Pappardelle al Sugo di Lepre (house-made pappardelle pasta served with hare (lepre) ragout). It also serves a hand-folded meat tortellini known locally as the Nodo d'Amore ("Love Knot"). One of our favorite restaurants in Italy. Slightly off the tourist flow but so worth it. About a 15 minute drive via SP28 from Peschiera del Garda, about 15 miles southwest of Verona.

 

La Lepre is a Unione Ristoranti del Buon Ricordo (member of the Union of Restaurants of Good Memory) that celebrates Italy's regional culinary traditions through a unique custom; hand-painted commemorative plates earned through culinary experience.

Each Buon Ricordo restaurant has a complimentary keepsake plate with a hand-painted illustration that highlights their special dish available when your order their tasting menu. The collectible plate at La Lepre features a hare bounding over a plate of ribbon pasta (Pappardelle al Sugo di Lepre). I am fortunate to have a Buon Ricardo plate from this restaurant that brings back memories of happy times spent with family and friends in this unique place.

 

Typically the tasting menu costs €30 per person and includes

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• An appetizer of local cured meats (salumi) served with hot, crispy fried dough (gnocco fritto).

• A pasta course featuring three different types of traditional handmade tortelli (usually the classic meat Tortellini di Valeggio tossed in butter, a pumpkin variety, and a potato variety).

• A dessert of your choice.

• House wine, water, and coffee

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Trattoria Dall'Antonia - Mira, VR. One of my favorite restaurants in all of Italy. It is an  exceptional historic seafood restaurant along the Brenta Canal in an area known as the Brenta Riviera.  The restaurant is  near the historic Palladian and  noble Venetian villas and a  short drive from Palladio's Villa Foscari (La Malcontenta). Palladio's famous Villa La Rotonda is located about 37 miles west of Trattoria Dall'Antonia. 

 

It is recognized by the Michelin Guide for its outstanding seafood  menu, sourcing its ingredients directly from the Adriatic Sea. Known for a special appetizer, baccalà mantecato (whipped, creamed cod spread) served over soft polenta and a digestivo, a refreshing sgroppino (lemon sorbet blended with vodka and prosecco) . 

 

While it is surrounded by the monumental architecture of the historic Brenta Riviera, Trattoria Dall'Antonia is known for its welcoming hospitality with cozy family-style  seating. Try to get a table near the windows with a view of the canal.  Mira is situated on the SR11 Regional Road midway between Padua and Venice and perfect for a memorable road trip through the region. 

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L’Archivio - Venice, VR. A cicchetti bar and café located in the San Polo district of Venice,  facing the historic Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari. On the Fondamenta Frari,  a waterside walkway running alongside a local Venetian canal. Exceptionally budget-friendly for Venice with typical small bites (cicchetti) and Venetian drinks (Aperol Spritz, Negroni) to while away the afternoon on the canals of Venice. ​​

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Ristorante La Ritrovata - Carole, VR.  La Ritrovata is located in the historic coastal town of Carole about 1 hour from central Venice.  Often called the "Little Venice" the colored houses, narrow calli and coastal beach of this Adriatic seaport is a favorite day trip when visiting our Italian cousins in Portogruaro. The traditional "casoni" (the huts where fishermen lived in the winter while fishing) still stand and the tasty,original cooking of the fisherman can still be found in the rustic atmosphere and food served. Be prepared for a seafood FEAST with an extensive menu that brings  both locals and travelers to this seaside resort for a gastronomic holiday. Our group feasted on mussels, the grigliata mista (amazing), misto mare, rigatoni alla pescatora (their specialty), branzino, scampi, code di rospo (angler-fish) and torta polenta for dessert. Our cousins insisted we finish the meal with a Venetian sgroppino, a drink made with lemon sorbet and prosecco served in a chilled flute. La bella vita!

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Trentino Alto-Adige

 

Hopfen and Company -  Bolzano/Bozen, BZ.  Historic brewery and restaurant serving traditional South Tyrolean cuisine and house beers ("Bozner Bier").  Eating wurtzel, stinco (grilled pork shank), apfelstrudel , speck and canederli (dumplings).

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Lazio - Rome 

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Da Pancrazia - Roma, LAZ. Taste the history of Rome served in a ristorante built on the ruins of the 61 BC ancient Theater of Pompey. 
 

 

 

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