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In General 

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Tavala calda -  (hot table) it is a unique style of dining typical of Milan that is the Italian equivalent of a casual, neighborhood cafeteria-style diner.  Instead of highly-processed fast food, fresh hot and cold dishes are displayed through a large glass and metal counter where you can choose from a wide variety of healthy, traditional comfort food that feels like your Nonna cooked it just for you.  Courses and side dishes are available and you can select what you like. Look for these  hot-counter cafeterias for authentic, inexpensive home-style cooking.  You can find them all over Milan. You only need to walk a few blocks into the neighborhoods off the main piazze and tourist sites to spot these local  eateries.  You can find tavala calda in other areas of Italy as well. 

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One of our favorites is Bistrot Milan Duomo. Located inside Il Mercato del Duomo building, you enter the ground floor and head upstairs to a multi-level marketplace with self-service pasta stations, hot dishes, and sandwiches overlooking the cathedral.

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Rosticceria:  Another local dining spot. These shops traditionally specialize in roasted meats like whole spit-roasted chickens, Tuscan arista pork loin)or porchetta, skewers of mixed meats, baked pastas, roasted potatoes and vegetables.

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Pizza al taglio ("pizza by the cut").  Pizza baked in large, rectangular pans that displayed on long glass bakery counters where you can choose a slice and weight cut to size. Artisan Italian street food meaning it is designed to be quick, convenient, and eaten on the go. While it was born in Rome, pizza al taglio has become a staple of daily life all over Italy.

 

 

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Lombardia

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Ristorante Mella  (Ittiturismo Mella) - Bellagio, LOM. A multi-generational family-run restaurant specializing in fresh fish caught directly from Lake Como.  I love this restaurant. Located in San Giovanni just outside Bellagio, it operates as an ittiturismo (fisherman's cooperative), meaning the owner catches the lake fish served each day. The location is rustic and relaxed with beautiful views of Lake Como away from the crowds of central Bellagio.

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Gino Sorbello, Solo Pizzeria - Milan , LOM. World-famous Neapolitan master pizzaiolo with several highly acclaimed pizzerias in Milan.

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Obica (Obika’) Duomo -  Milan, LOM. Mozzarella Bar on the 7th floor of La Rinascente Duomo with an icredible outdoor rooftop terrace with spectacular views of the Duomo spires so close you think you could touch them. Trendy, and tourist-friendly with a tasting platter centered around the freshest Mozzarella di Bufala Campana DOP paired with prosciuttos and pestos. If you like Mozzarella this is an obligatory spot to stop while visiting Piazza Duomo and shopping at the legendary La Rinascente. 

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Panzerotti Luini - Milan, LOM.  A must when in Milan for the ultimate Italian  street food experience. Down a side street , a short 1-2 blocks from the Duomo, the Luini historic bakery has been serving panzerotti since 1949. I like the classic stuffed version, a hand-held pastry pocket of fried dough filled with melted mozzarella and tomato sauce. There are other savory versions and a sweet version filled with hazelnut/chocolate, fruit or sweet ricotta. There is no indoor seating and always a line but the line moves fast. So be prepared to place your order and do as the locals do. Patiently wait then grab your warm Luini paper bag of panzerotti, find a nearby set of steps on the square for a local bite of a Milanese food legend.

 

IL Boschetto  - Sesto San Giovanni, Milan, LOM.  If you are staying in a local suburb of Milan,  which I always do,  IL Boschetto is a well-known, family-friendly garden restaurant and pizzeria located in Sesto San Giovanni directly connected to the Tube, Milan's underground transit network. It is easy and fast to reach, about  6 miles north of central Milan (Piazza del Duomo) at the Sesto Rondò station. If we are staying in Sesto we eat at least once at IL Boschetto.  The menu includes pizza and pasta and grilled meats as well as classic Italian coastal dishes like Sautè di Cozze e Vongole and grilled octopus which we enjoyed.

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Caffe degli artisti - Sesto San Giovanni, Milan, LOM. This caffe was recommended by our cousin Lidia who like in Sesto. Located in the middle of a beautiful public park, set inside the historic 19th-century Villa Zorn. Inside the villa there is a restaurant. There is also an outdoor kiosk and bar area that is open in the evenings from Tuesday to Sunday,  for a local Italian aperitivo or after-dinner drinks. They do serve Cotoletta alla Milanese: A massive, crispy, bone-in veal cutlet served topped with fresh arugula and cherry tomatoes.

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​Trattoria Bernabo - Bergamo, LOM.  Located in Città Alta (Bergamo's historic upper town), located off the main Piazza Vecchia on Piazza Mascheron, slightly off the tourist flow.  Serving polenta and other Lombardian including a local crescent-shaped pasta typical of Bergamo.

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Il Kiosko - Navigli in Milan, LOM.  Historic outdoor street food stall and pescheria (fish market) located at the edge of the Navigli canal district in Milan.  Informal and local. We grab a quick cone of fritto misto (fried seafood) to eat while walking along the Naviglio Grande or Naviglio Pavese.

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Meatball Family - CityLife Shopping District. Milan, LOM. Traditional meatballs, perfectly cooked with a modern, fast-casual dining twist. Variety of meatballs beyond the classics plus pizza and other traditional Italian favorites.  Located  in the food court of City Life Shopping center under the famous "Tre Torri" (Three Towers) skyscrapers.

 

 

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Emilia Romagna 

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​Trattoria Nuova Marasca - Mantova, MN, in one of the most beautiful squares of the old town, just behind the monumental cathedral of S. Andrea.

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Ristorante Montevenere - Monzuno BO, traditional Tagliatelle alla Bolognese and other  Apennine specialties.

 

La Ca’ Bianca Ristorante Pizzeria - Castelvetro in Modena, MO, family-friendly, convivial, traditional Emilian restaurant. Also serve skewered Spiedone di Carne with roasted potatoes with rustic charm. 

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Trattoria di Noemi - Ferrara, ER, located in the historic center of Ferrara, traditional Ferrara dishes including Cappellacci di zucca al burro e salvia. Michelin Recognition for its dedication to Renaissance-era and Este family traditions in a historic palace dating to the 15th century with a rustic romantic atmosphere so expect a higher price range. 

 

Antica Corona -Loiana, BO, a cozy, historic pizzeria and osteria located in Loiano where you can get authentic, handmade Neapolitan-style pizza alongside classic Bolognese dishes. Moderately priced. 22 miles south of Bologna. 

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Toscana

 

Ristorante Mugolone -Siena.  Fine dining in the heart of Siena. Located on an ancient pilgrim route connecting Piazza del Campo to the Duomo that leads you down narrow, winding cobblestone streets with an ambiance and atmosphere into another time and place. It is dinner time and streets are lit by iron lanterns, casting a soft, warm glow that leads you to Mugolone, the ancient flavors of Siena. Handmade pici pasta, fresh pappardelle with wild boar ragout, and classic Florentine T-bone steak sold by weight.

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Da Roberto - San Giovanni d”Asso, SI. Countryside trattoria located a few miles from the main village of San Giovanni d'Asso in the medieval hamlet of Montisi-famous Cinta Senesi pork dishes. Part of Slow Food Cooks’ Alliance. 

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La Locando del Castello Ristorante - San Giovanni d’Asso, SI.  A must for truffles. the Museo di Tartufo is  nearby and a prelude to a wonderful meal in this little village off the tourist flow for most travelers but so worth it. An undiscovered Tuscan secret.

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Ristorante Badia a’ Coltibuono - Gaiole, Chianti , SI -  Abbey of the Good Harvest. rather a famous stop in Chianti. Ancient abbey now winery, restaurant and wine resort with exceptional accommodations.  Wine tours available and there is a tasting menu with 4 wines and alla carte menu. Well-known for the Lorenza de’ Medici Cooking School, one of the first cooking schools in Tuscany. Her memory lives on  as an authority on Italian cuisine.

 

La Verbena -  Siena, located just outside the historic walls of Siena. Simple but incredible, authentic Tuscan meals. Good for those on road trips into Siena.  

 

Antica Macelleria Cecchini -Panzano, FI. A Tuscan macelleria (butcher shop) where the owner is as comfortable quoting a triplet from Dante’s inferno as seasoning and grilling a bistecca alla Fiorentina. On Sunday from 9:00 -2:00 pm you can walk right into the famous macelleria and enjoy a complimentary, sampling of antipasti with bread and Chianti butter (similar to lardo colonnata), finocchiona (fennel salami), and house Chianti wine or you can schedule a communal meal with Dario Cecchini for an amazing experience that defines the food, wine  and conviviality of Tuscany.  20 miles south of Florence. 

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Veneto​

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Osteria da Ugo - Verona, VR.  Hidden on a quiet side street , a 2 minute walk from Juliet’s House. Veronese regional dishes like Venetian-style liver and onions with polenta and bigoli; thick, long strands of pasta typical of the Veneto region of Italy. More regional wine including  favorites like Valpolicella and premium Amarone served by the glass.

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Ristorante Lepre ( La Lepre) - Valeggio sul Mincio, VR. is an exceptional family-run restaurant located in the historic center of Valeggio sul Mincio 6 to 7 miles south of the southern shore of Lake Garda. The restaurant is known for Pappardelle al Sugo di Lepre (house-made pappardelle pasta served with hare (lepre) ragout). It also serves a hand-folded meat tortellini known locally as the Nodo d'Amore ("Love Knot"). Both dishes are off the beaten path for most tourists but not for taste travelers who know that it is only about a 15 minute drive via SP28 from Peschiera del Garda., about 15. miles southwest of Verona.

 

La Lepre is  a Unione Ristoranti del Buon Ricordo (Union of Restaurants of Good Memory). An organization that celebrates Italy's regional culinary traditions through  a unique custom; when you order the multi-course Menu del Buon Ricordo (Buon Ricordo Tasting Menu) you receive a complimentary hand-painted commemorative plate as a keepsake. Each Buon Ricordo restaurant has a hand-painted cartoon illustration that highlights their special dish. In this case the collectible plate features a hare bounding over a plate of ribbon pasta, hand-crafted by artisans in Vietri sul Mare on the Amalfi Coast. Typically the tasting menu costs €30 per person and includes

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• An appetizer of local cured meats (salumi) served with hot, crispy fried dough (gnocco fritto).

• A pasta course featuring three different types of traditional handmade tortelli (usually the classic meat Tortellini di Valeggio tossed in butter, a pumpkin variety, and a potato variety).

• A dessert of your choice.

• House wine, water, and coffee

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Trattoria Dall'Antonia - Mira, VR. One of my favorite restaurants in all of Italy. It is an  exceptionally famous historic seafood restaurant along the Brenta Canal in an area known fas the Brenta Riviera.  The restaurant is  near the historic Palladian and  noble Venetian villas and a  short drive from Palladio's Villa Foscari (La Malcontenta). Palladio's famous Villa La Rotonda is located about 37 miles west of Trattoria Dall'Antonia. 

 

It is recognized by the Michelin Guide for its outstanding seafood  menu, sourcing its ingredients directly from the Adriatic Sea. Known for a special appetizer, baccalà mantecato (whipped, creamed cod spread) served over soft polenta and a prosecco digestivo, a refreshing sgroppino ( lemon sorbet blended with vodka and prosecco) . 

 

While it is surrounded by the monumental architecture of the historic Brenta Riviera, Trattoria Dall'Antonia is known for its welcoming hospitality with cozy family-style  seating. Try to get a table near the windows with a view of the canal.  Mira is situated on the SR11 Regional Road midway between Padua and Venice and perfect for a memorable road trip through the region. 

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L’Archivio - Venice, VR, a cicchetti bar and café located in the San Polo district of Venice,  facing the historic Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari. On the Fondamenta Frari,  a waterside walkway running right alongside a local Venetian canal. Exceptionally budget-friendly for Venice with typical small bites (cicchetti) and Venetian drinks (Aperol Spritz, Negroni) to while away the afternoon on the canals of Venice. ​​

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Trentino Alto-Adige

 

Hopfen and Company -  Bolzano/Bozen, BZ.  Historic brewery and restaurant serving traditional South Tyrolean cuisine and house beers ("Bozner Bier").  Eating wurtzel, stinco (grilled pork shank), apfelstrudel , speck and canederli (dumplings).

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Lazio - Rome 

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Da Pancrazia - Roma, LAZ. Taste the history of Rome served in a ristorante built on the ruins of the 61 BC ancient Theater of Pompey. 
 

 

 

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